Lind Enterprises Wholesale Nursery     L.C.B#5493
15077 Union School Rd.
Woodburn, OR 97071

Phone (503) 982-4755
Fax (503) 982-0812
E-mail lindenterprises@msn.com
www.lindenterprises.com

Deluxe Lawn Care Information

Once ordered, this is a continuing yearly service until you advise us differently.

We fertilize lawns up to seven times per year, on a regular basis. Basically, we begin in February and finish in December, servicing the lawn every six to seven weeks. You may take all 7 or as little as one.

Our Deluxe program contains both liquid plus granular applications. This provides a complete program of fertilizer/nutrients, weed control, moss control and insect control as needed.

Some points to consider in caring for your lawn are:

1)  Once each year in early spring (March-April), cut the lawn very short, between 1 and 1.5 inches, to remove standing dead grass. The best way to do this is to cut the lawn twice, once at last years height, take a break, then lower the mower setting and cut again. VERY IMPORTANT: When finished, set the mower to cut between 2 to 3 inches for the rest of the year.

A sharp mower is a MUST! Dull blades beat and bruise the grass off, rather than a sharp cut which heals quickly with much less moisture evaporation. Try not to cut more than 50% of the grass height at one mowing!

2)  Start watering before the lawn dries out. Some years this can be by late March. A lawn once dry will take many times the water it would have taken to keep it moist. Take a large screwdriver and push it into the ground. If it will not penetrate 6 to 8 inches, the lawn is already too dry. Start checking in March with a screwdriver once a week to see when watering should start.

      The best time to water the lawn is early morning.

3)  Normally, water deeply every 6 to 10 days during the growing season. (Turfgrass in our area needs about 1" of precipitation per week, either from rainwater or irrigation methods). Deeply means 1 to 1.5 inches of water over the entire surface of the lawn. The only way this can be correctly done is to set several containers on the lawn. Write down the starting time and water until 1 to 1.5 inches measures in all containers! In checking, if some containers received 1.5 inches while others only .5 inches under the same sprinkler in the same time period, you then know why the lawn in that spot turns brown.

4)  Rate of water application is also important! If water is applied too fast, the result is run off; therefore a sprinkler that covers a large area slowly is most effective! Normally, 1,000 square feet of lawn will take over 4 hours to water properly, not 15-20 minutes!! If it takes less time, you may be using the wrong type sprinkler.

5)  If you have brown areas in your lawn which cannot be penetrated with a screwdriver (see number 2) , you may need our water spike. Call & we will come out and see what is wrong.

6) For best results, always water the lawn after granular fertilization, however, deep watering at that time is not necessary.

7) If faded spots appear, check the lawn with a screwdriver for soil moisture, check cutting height (between 2½ to 3 inches). Other causes of brown or faded spots in lawns: 

  1. Over 1 inch of Thatch Buildup

  2. Soil Compaction ( Aerate )

  3. Dog Burn ( Water Spike )

  4. Excessive Traffic

  5. Fungus Disease (Lawn Spray)

  6. Improper P.H. ( Lime )

  7. Excessive Shade ( Overseed )

  8. Excessive Moisture ( Overseed )

8)  If your lawn is not responding to our fertilizer, for heaven’s sake, give us a call and we will come out and the solve the problem together.

OTHER SERVICES

1)  Tree and Shrub Spray: Up to five sprays per year. This includes both insect and disease control.

NOTE: The single most important, environmentally sound application of the year is the dormant spray, done from November thru March.

2)  Special Sprays: For Root Weevil, Mites, Fungus & Disease.

3)  Regular Outside Foundation Spray: For control of carpenter & sugar ants, earwigs, pill bugs, etc.

4)  Outside Area Spray: For the control of heavy carpenter ant infestations.

5)  Systemic Tree/Shrub Soil Injections: For seasonal control of aphid “honey dew”, drippings which attracts wasps, honey bees, yellow jackets, it is the sticky juice on cars, patio furniture, etc.

This is also used for control of Red Turpentine Beetle which can kill Scots Pine ( yearly bark preventative is also available).

6)  Deep Root Feed and Disease Control: Barkdust is very hard on plants, both shrubs and trees. Feeding your plants will truly be a good investment. Nutrients with mycorrhiza or disease control as needed also can greatly enhance the plants health.

7)  Shrub Bed Weed and Grass Control: A very effective, low cost weed control.

8)  Aerate and Lime: (Calpril)

9) Cambistat: An amazing tree renewal tool.

Networking - If you want a good job at a fair price, for nearly anything, give us a call. Over 40 years working with other small businesses. How can we better serve you? 503-982-4755

         Thank you for your time!  Steve, Darlene, Jeff & Doug