1)Yearly short mow
Once each year in early spring (March-April), cut the lawn very short,between 1 and 1.5 inches, to remove standing dead grass. The best way to do this is to cut the lawn twice, once at last years height, take a break, then lower the mower setting and cut again.
Remember:When finished, set the mower to cut between 2 to 3 inches for the rest of the year.
2)A sharp mower is a must!
Dull blades beat and bruise the grass off, rather than a sharp cut which heals quickly with much less moisture evaporation. Try not to cut more than 50% of the grass height at one mowing!
1) Start watering before the lawn dries out.
Some years this can be by late March. A lawn once dry will take many times the water it would have taken to keep it moist. Take a large screwdriver and push it into the ground. If it will not penetrate 6 to 8 inches, the lawn is already too dry. Start checking in March with a screwdriver once a week to see when watering should start.
The best time to water the lawn is early morning.
2) Water deeply every 6 to 10 days
(Turfgrass in our area needs about 1" of precipitation per week, either from rainwater or irrigation methods). Deeply means 1 to 1.5 inches of water over the entire surface of the lawn. The only way this can be correctly done is to set several containers on the lawn. Write down the starting time and water until 1 to 1.5 inches measures in all containers! In checking, if some containers received 1.5 inches while others only .5 inches under the same sprinkler in the same time period, you then know why the lawn in that spot turns brown.
3) Rate of water application
If water is applied too fast, the result is run off; therefore a sprinkler that covers a large area slowly is most effective! Normally, 1,000 square feet of lawn will take over 4 hours to water properly, not 15-20 minutes!! If it takes less time, you may be using the wrong type sprinkler.
4) For Best Results
Water the lawn after granular fertilization, however, deep watering at this time is not necessary
Still Having Problems?
A) If you have brown areas in your lawn which cannot be penetrated with a screwdriver (see number 1) , you may need our water spike.
B) If faded spots appear, check the lawn with a screwdriver for soil moisture, check cutting height (between 2½ to 3 inches).
C)Other causes of brown or faded spots in lawns:
Over 1 inch of Thatch Buildup
Soil Compaction ( Aerate )
Dog Burn ( Water Spike )
Fungus Disease (Lawn Spray)
Improper P.H. ( Lime )
Excessive Shade ( Overseed )
Excessive Moisture ( Overseed )
Still not greening up? Give us a call!